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Special Report:  Kumbha Mela 2001

January 9th, 2001 - Introduction By Tony Fernandes

Hello readers. Apologies for the delay in getting news stories posted from the mela. The servers (or to be more accurate, the server – I am told there is only one serving Allahabad - was down. Patience is something India specialises in teaching us.

The Kumbh Mela is indeed a very significant event. I usually try to steer away from superlatives, but... well! This is different.

When I attended the 1989 Mela I found myself here in Allahabad almost by accident. Circumstances in my life during the  six months preceding the 1989 mela had served to prepare me mentally and physically for the event. I dived in as a participant without understanding or knowing the deeper esoteric nature of the Kumbh mela. I did not realize until after I had departed from the Mela, that there are awesome forces at work beneath the surface of it. What is it that brings millions of people together to a particular inhospitable geographical location for a common purpose? The common purpose on the individual level is to have one’s sins or karma washed away. In crude scientific language, one could speculate that there is an intense force generated in this (auspicious) time and space. On the collective level there could be something else happening. The Sages and Mahatmas, who would usually remain anonymous, understand this force. They are present at the Mela because they have a role to play in managing it so that it can gradually unfold to benefit Mankind. All of this happens in the mind, on the various planes of consciousness. With the clay of consciousness we mould the vessel to house the Spirit in. In 1989 I witnessed mass behaviour patterns, which did not easily fit in with my scientific understanding. Clearly, something else is at play here. The analogy which comes to mind is that of the super-organism. It is a term coined by the ethologist Edward O. Wilson to describe the collective mind of an ant colony.

I believe we are in the midst of a paradigm shift. This shift is barely discernible to those who are enmeshed in the reigning ethos of our culture. The Kumbha Mela has been occurring here since before recorded history. It has always been an awesome event with hundreds of thousands and now millions of people in attendance. The estimated number of people expected to attend on 24th January this year will constitute one half of one percent of the world’s population and three percent of India’s population, all made to fit an area of less than 50 sq kilometres. The presence of the Ganges makes the human density even greater.

It is almost as if the mass of human beings are here to act like some kind of giant step-down transformer, helping to anchor to Earth immense energies and forces which are being channeled during this event into the Human Kingdom. Kumbha Mela could well be one of the most important historic mechanisms put in place aeons ago for the evolution of global consciousness. Mass-televised sporting events broadcast in real-time to as many as two billion people is one example of how specific elements of global consciousness are being synchronised.

What role does the Kumbha Mela play in the development and workings of the emerging globalisation of the Mind? This is a different kind of question. These are the kind of questions that need to be asked. There should be research programmes to investigate these emerging Realities. Why does life seem to move so fast? There are many possible non-standard answers to this and other riddles of our time.

The Global Mind is growing younger because the percentage of the world’s population under twenty is higher than it has ever been. They are the flexible ones, with their young minds they can juggle two balls at once. They are creating a future more in their image. The force of their aspirations will overwhelm us all. GNP will no longer be the dominant force in global power, but the power of consciousness vested in people. Globalisation is indeed sweeping the world, but we seem to be focusing on the ‘flash in the pan’ of global capitalism. If one looks carefully, global capitalism is actually in deep crisis. Examples of its triumphs which the business community never fail to advertise are really the dying throes of a system whose time has come and gone. Capitalism has bestowed many benefits and was a necessary stage in our evolution towards gradual collective union. ‘Yes! Thank you capitalism for making us global. Now you can step down because we are beginning to awaken and you seem to be too much in the way.’ When are radical and transformational changes likely to come? Who knows, perhaps by 2015 or a generation from now. These ideas may be speculations, but they are no less credible than many of the currently accepted theories which are daily being swallowed whole by a public too exhausted to care.

A Brief Note About the background of these Reports

At the conclusion of the 1989 Mela I resolved to attend the next big one in 2001. There is no substitute for participation. I was going to arrive here at the Mela with the bare minimum and stay with the vast majority of pilgrims on the banks and sand banks of the Ganga. However, fate intervened in the form of Royce Carlson, the erstwhile pillar behind zenzibar.com. He was aware of the importance of the Kumbha Mela and like every good editor was trying to get it covered. When he requested me to cover it, I declined at first, but my inner voice overrode my reluctance. I was reluctant because it is not possible to be a participant and an observer at the same time. You are either one or the other. I accepted because I realised that it is a duty to transmit the goings-on here to those who might be interested. In addition we now have the technology to make the event as real as is possible for those who cannot be here.

Coming here with a notebook computer, mobile phone, digital camera and walkie- talkies does not fit my personality at all. I do not do these kind of things. I prefer simplicity. However, since I find myself with the technological equivalent of the magician’s bag, it is worth doing well. The logistics involved have been another kind of challenge. The need to constantly plug into electricity. Looking for an appropriate Internet café. Hoping the telephone line will be able to handle the data without going on the blink. Walking large distances without knowing if I will be able to come back to where I have kept the equipment. Fortunately, I have found a very loving family in one of the alleyways of Allahabad near to the mela site. They are very poor and have suffered a number of tragedies and setbacks in the past 18 months. They are plugged into the electricity grid and so this has become my base. They look after me well. Last night I went to the Sangam at 1.30am and returned at 4.30am. I walked into the freezing waters and walked back again. It was a full moon night, an experience to remember. Tonight (10th January, it happens to be my 46th birthday) I am planning to brave the freezing cold and spend the night at the Triveni Sangam. The moon will be right overhead and the lunar eclipse is due to occur between midnight and 3am. Must be my lucky day. The temperature outside is expected to be zero Centigrade. Am I addicted to suffering? Are all of us who are going to be out there in the freezing cold, mad? Thank God for lunatics, they help make us less sane and add spice to our world.

I am conscious that my reports to you all will fail the quality control test. The mental, spatial and temporal atmosphere here has its own logic. I have difficulty bringing myself back to reality to type this stuff. I will of course accept TOTAL responsibility if you feel the time you spend reading my reports could have been utilised better elsewhere. Posting regular reports to Zenzibar is a pleasure, but I also find it hard work.

I am ready to cover any aspect of the mela which interests ZNN’s readers. I will be looking into the logistics of this event. The water supply, sewage, food distribution, traffic control, medical preparedness etc. If you find some of the photographs interesting and wish to pursue any particular aspect which comes across in the picture, please let me know at tony@zenzibar.com. However, this being India’s Hindu belt, everything is in Hindi and my Hindi is not quite up to scratch. Further, one official tells you one thing and another tells you another. Still it is part of the magic of India. Nothing is necessarily as it seems. If you prefer to speculate on the meaning and purpose of the Kumbha Mela, please post your questions, ideas, and views on the Zenzibar site. If you wish to hear more about this from me or people at the mela, I will try to accommodate your wishes.

At your service, 

Tony Fernandes 
tony@zenzibar.com

Click Here to see the first batch of photos from the Kumbha Mela

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