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Allahabad – 21th
February, 2001
Uttar Pradesh
Government Congratulates Itself
by Tony Fernandes
While I have been away visiting the
neighbouring state of Bihar, Allahabad has been slowly getting back to
normal. The streets are no longer congested and the mela grounds have
been transformed into what looks like an empty wasteland. A few camps
are still around in sector seven including that of ISKCON. The
infrastructure which was put in place over the past few months is
continuing to be dismantled.
The Govt. of Uttar Pradesh has been
congratulating itself for a job well done. At a function held on 19th
February at the media camp to celebrate the achievements of the officers
of the Mela administration, the Kumbh Mela Commissioner began with
"As a Hindu I believe in religion. All living beings perform duties
in this world prescribed by God which is already pre-determined".
All senior officials were presented with Kumbh mementoes and were each
conferred with titles ranging from Shankaracharya, Baba and Mahatyagi to
Paramahans and Chaitanya. A time for self-congratulation.
Fortunately nothing went seriously wrong
during this Kumbh. There were no bombs and no stampedes. Groups and
volunteers from among the pilgrims carried out all of the truly
inspiring work. The work of feeding hundreds of thousands everyday and
providing psychological support to the distressed was carried out by
people from all over India and all walks of life who subscribe to the
Karma Yoga ideal. The lost and found camps were also non-government
initiatives and run independently. The story behind the administering of
this Maha Kumbh is as interesting as the one behind the governing India,
this vast and sacred land. It is a story that will have to wait another
day.
In the meantime, here in Allahabad and
particularly in Benares (Varanasi) preparations are underway for
tomorrow’s Maha Shivatri celebrations. The primary focus in Allahabad
will not be at the Sangam, but at a famous Shiv temple some 12
kilometres away. Most pilgrims will visit both sites. This will be
mainly a local event and so only about a million people are expected.
The situation in Benares is different. Many more pilgrims are expected
there. Many choose to arrive by foot after walking for days. This Maha
Shivratri will be particularly challenging for the authorities in
Benares because of the extra large number of pilgrims, sadhus and naga
babas who have ‘overflowed’ there from the Kumbh. Access to the Kasi
Vishwanath temple there is via some of the narrowest lanes in India.
These small lanes are surrounded by very old houses and shops. An added
complication is that the temple almost touches the Gyanvapi mosque. This
is one of three mosques in this state, targeted by a coalition of Hindu
organisations for demolition and replacement. Following the successful
demolition of the Babri Masjid in Ayodhya by Hindu fanatics in 1992, the
Government has put in place extra fortifications and armed troops here
to prevent a repetition. Visiting the temple on an ordinary day can be
like walking past a military camp. The narrow lanes, protecting the
Gyanvapi mosque and the extra large number of people are the three
constraints which will make this year’s Maha Shivratri yet another
challenging experience for the poor hard done by pilgrim.
The Mangla aarti will begin at the
Vishwanath temple at 2.15am and end at 3am. From 4am the temple will be
open only to pilgrims who have been issued with tickets. The naga babas
have the 7.30am to 10am slot reserved for them. The ghats along the
Ganges will be packed and boats will remain on hand every few meters to
ensure nobody drowns. Meanwhile I will continue my reports from
Allahabad and the surrounding area.
Please address your comments to the Zenzibar Salon
where a discussion
area is set up for the Kumbh Mela.
Tony
Fernandes is Zenzibar's correspondent at Kumbh Mela 2001 in Allahabad,
India. You can contact him at tony@zenzibar.com
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